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I was riding at normal speed and something sounded like a pop, transmission down shifted to 3rd gear, just as if you had changed to tow mode. Rpms went up and trans would not shift, stayed in 3rd gear. What could this be and how can it be fixed?
If the check engine light came on, your engine’s ECU computer is registering 1 or more error codes. If you have an OBD-II scanner you can read them yourself, otherwise you’ll have to take the truck to the dealership to clear them even if you fix the mechanical failure on your own. I’m assuming it’s an automatic transmission, which may or may not be owner-serviceable (I know Fords require a trip to the dealership for transmission service). However, if you’re experienced in working on your truck, you may just want to look underneath to see if the driveshaft, u-joints, rear end differential, and transmission box seem to be lined up and fastened properly. The pop you heard was most likely a mechanical failure in which a mount or internal gear may have broken or seized. If nothing seems broken, twisted, bent, or leaking underneath your truck, your best bet is to get the error codes causing your check engine light scanned asap. Good luck, transmission failures are never fun and rarely cheap. I do believe they are covered in Dodge’s extended powertrain warranty, so there may be some salvation.
Just to reiterate of what Derek Halman is pointing out correctly. Here are just a few of the things that could be wrong with your transmission. Best to get it scanned and narrowed down: NO LOW GEAR (MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR ONLY) Possible cause Cause 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. Solution 1. Test with DRBT scan tool and repair as required. Cause 2. Valve Body Malfunction. Solution 2. Remove, clean and inspect. Look for sticking 1-2 shift valve, 2-3 shift valve,governor plug or broken springs. Cause 3. Front Servo Piston Cocked in Bore. Solution 3. Inspect servo and repair as required. Cause 4. Front Band Linkage Malfunction Solution 4. Inspect linkage and look for bind in linkage. STUCK IN LOW GEAR (WILL NOT UPSHIFT) Cause 1. Throttle Linkage Mis-adjusted/Stuck. Correction 1. Adjust linkage and repair linkage if worn or damaged. Check for binding cable or missing return spring. Cause 2. Gearshift Linkage Mis-adjusted. Solution 2. Adjust linkage and repair linkage if worn or damaged. Cause 3. Governor Component Electrical Fault. Solution 3. Check operating pressures and test with DRBT scan tool, repair faulty component. Cause 4. Front Band Out of Adjustment. Solution 4. Adjust Band. Cause 5. Clutch or Servo Malfunction. Solution 5. Air pressure check operation of clutches and bands. Repair faulty component. NO 3-4 UPSHIFT Cause 1. O/D Switch In OFF Position. Solution 1. Turn control switch to ON position. Cause 2. Overdrive Circuit Fuse Blown. Solution 2. Replace fuse. Determine why fuse failed and repair as necessary (i.e., shorts or grounds in circuit). Cause 3. O/D Switch Wire Shorted/Open Cut. Solution 3. Check wires/connections with 12V test lamp and voltmeter. Repair damaged or loose wire/connection as necessary. Cause 4. Distance or Coolant Sensor Malfunction. Solution 4. Check with DRBT scan tool and repair orreplace as necessary. Cause 5. TPS Malfunction. Solution 5. Check with DRBT scan tool and replace if necessary. Cause 6. Neutral Sense to PCM Wire Shorted/Cut. Solution 6. Test switch/sensor as described in service section and replace if necessary. Cause 7. PCM Malfunction. Solution 7. Check with DRBT scan tool and replace if necessary. Cause 8. Overdrive Solenoid Shorted/Open. solution 8. Replace solenoid if shorted or open and repair loose or damaged wires (DRBT scan tool). Cause 9. Solenoid Feed Orifice in Valve Body Blocked. Solution 9. Remove, disassemble, and clean valve body thoroughly. Check feed orifice. Cause 10. Overdrive Clutch Failed. Solution 10. Disassemble overdrive and repair as needed. Cause 11. Hydraulic Pressure Low. Solution 11. Pressure test transmission to determine cause. Cause 12. Valve Body Valve Stuck. Solution 12. Repair stuck 3-4 shift valve, 3-4 timing valve. Cause 13. O/D Piston Incorrect Spacer. Solution 13. Remove unit, check end play and install correct spacer. Cause 14. Overdrive Piston Seal Failure. Solution 14. Replace both seals. Cause 15. O/D Check Valve/Orifice Failed. Solution 15. Check for free movement and secure assembly (in piston retainer). Check ball bleed orifice. Does not look like a good job for a DIY’er unless you have the proper tools and knowledge. Again this is just to reenforce Derek’s answer :-) best of luck to you.
John, As a first step, have a good Technician scan for trouble codes, diagnose and estimate repair. Takes a lot of guess work out of transmission fault diagnosing if there are codes set. I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button.
I had the same thing happen 3 weeks ago. Cruising speed. ‘Pop’ (a jerky, kick-down, really). Check Engine Light came on. Now in 3rd gear. Wouldn’t downshift at stop sign. I turned off engine. Restarted. Transmission shifted right, but R-N-D shifts with a sloppy ‘bang’ (like a bad u-joint). I disconnected the battery. Waited 2 minutes. Reconnected Battery. Ck Eng light gone and truck back to normal. After 1200 miles of my regular driving, its fine. Good Luck.
Make sure fluid is at right level because most probably it is caused by improper fluid level or thickness of fluid. Also check your clutch linkage or shift cable and adjust them if necessary. One more problem that causes gear shift problem is vehicle’s computer system that controls the automatic transmission as you see at buyusedengine(.)com. You need to reset it. Resetting takes most likely 30 minutes but if even after resetting, it doesn’t work, time to go for a mechanic.
check the wire connection on the driver side of the trans it may oil in it from the trans this happened too my trans when i pulled the connecter apart oil ran out i clean and dried it good and my shift problem went away.
Make sure fluid is at right level because most probably it is caused by improper fluid level or thickness of fluid. Also check your clutch linkage or shift cable and adjust them if necessary. One more problem that causes gear shift problem is vehicle’s computer system that controls the automatic transmission (as you see at buyusedengine.com). You need to reset it. Resetting takes most likely 30 minutes but if even after resetting, it doesn’t work, time to go for a mechanic.
I had the vehicle taken to an AAA approved facility (this happened on the road) on a roll-off never turning the engine off. Technician checked codes, wiring, etc. Nothing found. They kept it 2 days while we stayed in a nearby motel. They tried driving it while cold, while hot etc trying various driving styles and could not reproduce the issue. They did not charge me a cent either as they said they could not fix anything. Great people in Montgomery AL. It’s been over a year and the problem has never occurred again. It was a one time event up until now. An isolated incident. No telling the cause. My own thoughts are that today’s vehicles are far too complicated for anyone to design them properly or fix them. Other than this incident at 105,000 miles I’ve had no other tranny problems at all. In fact the only other problem was 6 years ago with a water pump bearing failure, tossing the belt and overheating the engine which caused the heads to warp and leak antifreeze until I replaced them. That was at 47,000 miles. Nothing other than these 2 issues has ever left me stranded with this vehicle. I now have it in semi-retirement having recently purchased a new vehicle which is my main one. I don’t feel I can trust the Dodge any longer for distance travel. Shame too because it is a nice looking truck. Body still good, engine good. I just don’t trust it and don’t know about buying another Dodge product again.
Try this first disconnect you battery it will reprogram it ,,,it worked for me..good luck
I am having a similar problem with my 2004 durango. Drivea and shifts fine when i bought it. Month later driving on highway heard a pop or bump and shifted down to 3rd and wouldnt fo back into OD. Turn car off and back on no problem. Now happening more often. At stop light put it into 1st starts in 2nd. Put int into 2nd and starts in 2nd. Start in 2nd and around 3000rpm shift in D. Will not shift into OD. Anyone else with this problem. Has to be computer related giving you can reset the tcm for short periods of time to hold you over. Im thinking shift selonoid or stuip sensor. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
Everyone’s inputs troubleshoots and ideas have pretty much taught me a lot of my “COLD BLOODED BEAST!!!” ~ 04 5.9 Cummins 3500 4x4. With only 140k miles. All highway. It sat for nearly 6 years as you can tell it’s barley breaking in. Iv been having similar issues and worse. Wanna share and ask for ideas and inputs also possible fixes and or stories as mine but with happy ending. , It’s been 2 winters that I notice once it starts getting cold ( California cold) 40 degrees she acts up. Riding fine at take off for a one ton before catching last gear rpms go up high as 3500-4500 , Throttle pressure has 3/4 play and I start to decrease in speed even though I repump gas pedal and it catch that last gear but drop it and again rpms up so on and so forth. The first winter it did that I was about to bully dog tune her but notice that and withheld. Took her to my mechanic whom rather sleep in his Cummins than his wife, changed the trans to a new one with stage 2 upgrade. Spring came along and the 35 and me were like deer in the meadows. 2018- present winter again only this time I know it’s not tranny. Iv only put 10 miles since and fluids are correct levels. She’s shooting codes now p0148 high pressure commun rail pressure and faulty p1740 torque converter clutch or overdrive sensor poor connection/ shorten circuit. So I’m driving without catching overdrive until I travel about 60 miles if with those 60 miles I take foot off pedal shell stall not caring for my well being. So I wanna fix her myself she’s became dangerous and I’m the original owner. I know 04s have 4 recalls one for not wanting to shift correctly into Park and the three airbags. I’ve yet tooken her in. I’m open for any advice I purchased about 6 sensors iv read about the relief rail pressure, throttle position sensor, the fuel actuator or (on off solenoid) changed fuel filter changed oil, added a 7” loft on front and 5”in back . Lol. I’m open for further ideas lemme know what to do first. I will return new unnecessary parts. They are a pretty penny. Thank you in advance!
It’s usually the solenoid pack, very easy to change! Pull trany pan . (Outside) Pull the filter and filter pan. (Inside) Pull the solenoid cover X a whole lot of screews(will need a tourx bit.) Unplug side connector(outside) Pull and replace the solenoid pack! Repeat installation in reverse! Don’t forget to fill with new +4 trany fluid! Results: Shifting and bog down issues gone, trany like new! About a 220 dollar fix! Unless you can find the trany solenoid pack cheaper! Shops will charge a ton for simply changing out the S pack! It is very common for Ram S pack to go out.
