Chosen Solution
I have a 60 inch Samsung TV (model UN60J6200AFXZA). The power board overheated and a capacitor/resistor on it popped like a firework and burned out. I ordered a new power board (part number BN44-00775A), installed it and the TV worked fine for 40 minutes. The picture started to flicker on and off and the TV wouldn’t turn off. The metal cover plate on the back of the TV was really hot, couldn’t touch it and there was the smell of an electrical fire starting. I unplugged it, let it cool and took the back off. The new power board looks fine, no capacitors or resistors blown/bulging and no evidence of charring. There seems to be very little info out there in diagnosing the problem I’m having let alone fixing it. I’m at the point where I don’t know what to do. The TV is only 4 years old and I really don’t want to drop over $750 or more on a new set. I don’t know what is wrong with the TV, it seems like it’s drawing too much electricity and overheating, don’t know what would cause it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi @redhornet , I don’t know the TV so I don’t know about a metal cover plate but is it the plate covering the tcon board as shown in this image for the TV?
(click on image to enlarge for better viewing) If so then this board interfaces the video signals between the mainboard and the LCD panel. It’s power supply comes via the mainboard and not directly from the power board. You may want to check if the tcon board looks OK. Here’s the UN60J6200AFXZA Fast Track Troubleshooting Manual where the image came from which may help but it doesn’t go into much detail about how the boards individually function although it does give voltages for the power board but it seems as though the problem is not with it. If not and it was heating up on an expanse of metal plate with no board over it, then the problem will be with the backlights as they are the only components capable of producing that amount of heat on the other side of the metal panel and also they are directly powered by the power board. If you do the Forced backlight test as described in the manual, then if the metal does heat up again you know it is the backlights as nothing else will be powered on, except the power board of course i.e. mainboard and tcon board are not connected to power during the test. There are videos on YouTube that show how to replace the backlights in a TV that will help you to check if they’re OK and not faulty e.g. if a backlight LED went short circuit, extra current would flow through the others increasing the heat emanating from them
